Back in the day, before the word “barista” was widely used, people used to pull out ‘ye old carafe’, kettle and fresh coffee to brew a cuppa. Pre barista competitions, pre Starbucks on every corner, there was a time when espresso was the stepchild of brewed coffee. Flash forward just a few years, Howard built it and they came, drip brewed or pressed coffee took a back seat to the more up-tempo, trendy espresso options. Flash forward to present time, now the tables, or brewers, have turned and we are enjoying a renaissance of drip brewed, by the cup or carafe, of specialty coffee. Hallelujah.
What fueled this growth? – overall quality and availability of coffee, roasters, and sophisticated consumers demanding to enjoy delicious coffee in its most sublime state. Enter the Chemex – classic form and function. From the Chemex website, “Few products in this century can match the flawless blending of design and function of the Chemex®. Its visual elegance has earned it a place in the permanent collection of New York’s Museum located in Corning, New York. The Chemex® coffeemaker was also selected by the Illinois Institute of Technology as one of the 100 best designed products of modern times and found in the Smithsonian and the Philadelphia Museum of Art.” How cool is that? “The German Chemist Schlumbohm created Chemex in 1941 after moving to NYC in 1936. He was very familiar with laboratory equipment and methods of filtration and extraction. “ Liz Grassy continues the tradition of Chemex from Pittsfield, MA. The Company has always existed in the United States and will remain here. Liz continues, “When my husband and I bought the company in the 80’s we loved the product and the colorful history of it and its inventor. My husband in particular enjoyed the stories and lifestyle of Peter Schlumbohm, who was quite a colorful character in his day. We did recognize that it was an iconic piece that is timeless. We have certainly seen a surge in the popularity of our products. Within the past few years, with single brew cupping, the demand for the Chemex® has grown considerably. We also believe that the specialty coffee industry has contributed greatly to the surge. With increased knowledge of coffee, consumers have found that brewing with Chemex is a pure and simple way to get the most from their coffee.”
When Chemex first entered my life I was a college student. It was an inexpensive way to brew coffee manually. Espresso and Cappuccino were out of the picture unless I had the cash. My mom had her percolator tableside every meal, and every visitor to the house was offered fresh coffee. I understood the social impact of fresh brewed coffee and carried on the tradition. Filter papers were costly, I would buy cotton pillowcases and cut the corners for reusable filters, pre-moistening them as not to absorb the coffee oils. Not long after, my jobs centered around coffee houses so there were always fresh beans and filters at hand.
Love at first sip.
In press pot brewing often there is sediment in the cup. Brewing with paper filters, Chemex coffee is clear and clean. In cupper’s terminology that translates to the coffee having no dirty aftertaste. Pure describes the transparency of the cup and flavor. All things being equal, comparing drip to press using the freshest high quality specialty coffee brewed, the coffee flavor from the Chemex drip system comes through to the cup. Infusion time is manipulated through the barista determining brew strength with the rate of water pour. I appreciate the ‘room for growth’ in the open top filter of Chemex. Sometimes with an electric brewer, the filter basket explodes with fresh coffee degassing and spilling during brewing. This works well for double strength brewing for iced coffees or slow drip method without the worry of having too much coffee in the filter. On the main bowl of the carafe there is a small bubble that marks the halfway point of the carafe. Not exactly rocket science, but for those of us who prefer “at a glance” ballpark brewing measurements rather than legal weights and measures, the bubble works just fine when infusing water.
Love at first sight. The Chemex style is particularly attractive in restaurants and dining use since it can be brewed table side allowing the server to explain about the coffee origin, and taste profile while providing personal, attentive service as the guests enjoy the tableside show. The design of the filters and open top of the glass carafe lull the customers with intoxicating aromatics. Often times, guests will ask about the coffee brewing technique during the process so they can replicate the delicious coffee once home. A good thing.
Schlumbohm also designed a water kettle with heatproof borosilicate. The kettle for boiling water has no lid, instead it is enclosed with a “steam stopper” that prevents the steam from heating the neck of the kettle. The neck stays cool and is used as the handle. This is THE perfect wedding gift.
I asked Liz if the international notoriety was also local. “No, there are not any parades, streets named after us, or holidays in our honor. We are known among the coffee enthusiasts in our town, and have a great relationship with our local stores and coffee shops. We are working on collaborations and would like to build a stronger connection with the Pittsfield and the Berkshire community. But, it almost never fails that when Chemex is mentioned to someone, they always know what it is, and can recall having one or their Grandmother having one. But now as the popularity has grown, it is also popular with the younger generation – the roasters and baristas that we are connecting with.” History repeats itself.









