Whether it’s an emphasis on advanced coffee cupping, in-depth lessons on coffee defects, or an eye-opening look at coffee farm economics and the relationship to quality, the curriculum at the annual Roasters Guild Roasters Retreat always delivers. In fact, it’s famous for raising thought-provoking conversations among the roasting industry’s élite.
The Retreat is certainly revered in the industry; it’s considered a “must” for cutting edge, innovative roasters. It’s the place where they gather, share and gain perception on where the industry will be in the coming years. This year’s meeting, the 11th Annual Roasters Guild Retreat, is set for Stonewall Resort in West Virginia, Aug. 18 – 21 (www.roasterguild.org).
“To me, the most recognizable impact that the Roasters Retreat has had on craft roasting is the proliferation of cupping,” says Phil Beattie of Dillanos Coffee Roasters in Sumner, Wash.
A forward-thinking affair
Beattie notes that long before “relationship” coffee, direct trade or the single cup craze even hit the mainstream, they were hotly discussed topics at the Retreat. He clearly sees how the event makes an impact on the roasting community. “In the early years of the Retreat, the percentage of roasters attending who had never cupped coffee was fairly high. At that time, some roasters saw cupping as a skill that was only needed for large roasting companies and importers. Now, it is hard to find a roaster who doesn’t see the value and necessity of cupping. No matter how much coffee you roast, some credit for this cupping proliferation has to be credited to this Retreat.”
As a member of the Specialty Coffee Association of America (www.scaa.org), director of coffee and green coffee buyer for Dillanos and the current secretary/treasurer for the Roasters Guild, Beattie believes the modern roaster is part artisan, part world traveler and part information ambassador. Rather than zealously guarding trade secrets, he actively seeks opportunities, like the Roasters Guild Roasters Retreat, to share his passion and knowledge with others. It’s an event he prefers not to miss.
Beattie, who acts as a “roasting emissary” in all his coffee pursuits, says that roasters are exposed to hundreds of different roasting philosophies and taste preferences each year at the retreat. “Even the most veteran roasters are forced to question their own approaches to coffee, and this questioning is what fuels innovation and progress,” he says.
Delving into the key subjects
This year’s Retreat offers educational and networking opportunities for roasters, manufacturers, importers and coffee farmers—all gathered in one intimate setting. “It’s an excellent way to expand your sourcing opportunities or even find other roasters that would like to take part in coöperative buying, if you are interested,” explains Beattie, who believes that education is the No. 1 reason to attend. “I can say with confidence that the relationships and knowledge that I have gained from Retreat have been the foundation of my growth in the coffee industry.”
Some of the main topics for this year’s event include: Green coffee defects and roast defects; the economics on a coffee farm: the cost of quality; advanced sensory science; the Roasters Guild Certification Program; a sensory skills test, to evaluate a coffee cupper’s ability to identify and discern different taste thresholds, utilizing variations of sweet and sour mixtures; and an introduction to cupping and calibration cupping, among other themes.
Beattie says, “Beyond giving roasters the data and practice needed to roast and cup coffee at a higher level, the Retreat exposes roasters to the attitudes and approaches taken by some of the most successful roasters of our generation. It provides the tools and information to allow roasters of any skill level to return to their companies and have immediate impacts on the quality of their product.”
At the meeting, participants take part in hands-on lessons with roasting equipment, roundtable discussions and many opportunities for the exchange of ideas. For Beattie, he’s going to be tuned in to the strategies of his colleagues, who have established relationships at origin. He wants to know how they’re maintaining those relationships. “As the price of coffee goes up, the conversations of re-negotiating contracts and concerns of maintaining the quality of deliveries from co-operatives increase,” he reveals. “I will be interested to hear how roasters are dealing with these challenges.”
Looking at supply challenges
According to Beattie, the biggest current issue facing roasters—and the industry—is supply. “The amount of quality green coffee available continues to diminish while prices continue to soar, so the role of the roasting professional in blend development and consistency will continue to be crucial to the success of roasting companies,” he says. “Indeed, the issues of cost of goods, stability of relationships at origin and global coffee consumption and its impact locally will surely be hot topics at Retreat this year.”
In addition to these key issues, the Retreat will highlight “roasting to style.” “With the increasing diversity of brewing methods, it is becoming crucial for roasting professionals to understand ways of matching the style of roast to the brewing format that the coffee is intended for,” explains Beattie.
Tri Style Roasting Challenge
One highlight of the Retreat is the Tri Style Roasting Challenge, where teams will roast coffees, either a blend or a single origin, and then brew via one of two methods. There will be a winner for each brewing category, but the overall winner will be determined by whichever team has the highest average score between the two brew methods. Another element that’s planned for the Challenge: a calibration cupping and evaluation of all of the coffees. Judges will score each coffee at this cupping, and then each team will choose a single coffee and roast it in an attempt to achieve the same scores as the calibration samples.
“Overall, you can say there are tangible and intangible benefits to attending this Retreat,” says Beattie. “But the biggest reward is intangible. It is the renewed sense of curiosity and creative spirit that every roaster who attends takes back to their roastery.”
To learn more about the Roasters Guild and to register for the Retreat, visit www.roastersguild.org. The Roasters Guild is a trade guild that consists of specialty roasters dedicated to the craft of roasting quality coffee. Through collaboration, professional certification and training opportunities, the members of the Guild are able to refine their skills and gain a deeper understanding of their professions.
Aaron Kiel is a freelance writer, public relations and communications consultant. He can be reached at akiel@akprgroup.com.
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